Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. But, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.
This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.
“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.
In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.
The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.
It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.
Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.
It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.
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Margaret Crane
Margaret Crane
Margaret Crane
Margaret Crane
Margaret Crane